Charles Lloyd & The Marvels among the highlights at Gărâna Jazz Festival, Romania

What started as a jam session in the beer garden of the local pub in 1997 is now a renowned International Jazz Festival.

What makes this even more impressive is that Gărâna, an attractive village in an area of outstanding natural beauty, is pretty much in the middle of nowhere.

This is a festival for hardy fans, you don’t stumble across the festival by accident or decide to go at the last minute – it is too remote. 

You need to arrive by car due to the remoteness of the festival site. Then you have to find somewhere to stay; camping, B&B's, renting a room from the few locals, or by sleeping in your car. You can see by the number plates of the vehicles in the main car park that people have travelled a long way to get here – Dutch, Austrian & German cars abound. In 2007 more than 10,000 people attended the gig of Jan Garbarek – the full-time population of Gărâna is under 50 people.

The festival organiser since 2001 – Marius Giura, has shaped the festival site to be ‘all inclusive’. The venue, ‘Wolf Meadow’, is a large natural depression in a hill – making the perfect shape for an auditorium with the stage set at the low point and the audience seated on logs that gently rise uphill so that everyone gets a good view.

Beyond the logged seating area are food and drink concessions selling the most delicious home cooked food – goulash not surprisingly, being one of the most popular dishes – cooked in massive pots and served with bread in very generous portions. There are craft shops a record store and even clothing for sale. There are towns and villages nearby with restaurants and shops, several lakes, numerous walks and mountain biking - in winter it’s a ski resort...

The festival site is a world within a world and has a very special feeling because of it.

The programme at Wolf Meadow starts at 6pm and ends when everyone has played (usually five acts) – meaning around 2am – but depending on transportation hold ups on the local roads (and I use the term ‘roads’ in its loosest sense) it can be later.

There is also usually a second venue, this year a local church a few miles away from Wolf Meadow where Romanian artists get the chance to play at the festival. To contradict this the opening act this year was French cellist Vincent Courtois who played an excellent solo set in this beautiful old church.

The opening act of the festival was Charles Lloyd & The Marvels featuring Bill Frisell (the third time Lloyd has played at the festival). This was an excellent start with both Lloyd & Frisell in buoyant mood enjoying the early evening sunshine and the excitement from the incoming crowd (many obviously thought he would be playing later on the bill).

Lloyd now 84 is playing as well as ever and his constant broad smile surly an indication of his pleasure at still being able to tour and play night after night.

I have seen Håkon Kornstad several times and never fail to be impressed by his tenor sax and opera singing act. He is unique in what he does and over the years has honed this show to be an incredible experience, the crowd gave him a rousing standing ovation at the end.

Vereni Pohjola’s quartet brought a real touch of class to the stage. The Finnish trumpeter has gone from strength to strength in recent years and is probably now the leading European trumpet player. His playing interweaves lyrical and abstract motifs and a distinctive tone and style, now as recognisable as any of the great horn players.

Vereni Pohjola

Following Pohjola’s set came another equally brilliant show featuring Alexi Toumarila.

Toumarila has been on the scene a long time, notably gaining early exposure with Tomasz Stanko. That relationship is still audible in brief moments throughout the concert – a melancholic phrase here or a solo there - whilst pure Tuomarila these moments reflect upon the genius that was Stanko. Long standing compatriots Antti Lötjönen (bass) and the brilliant Olavi Louhivuori (Drums) completed the trio – the compositions and playing were exquisite and fitted this idyllic location perfectly.

Michael Wollny & Emile Parisien played a delightful duo set in a festival heavy with ‘louder’ bands – the intricate interplay between the two, delicate at times but always interesting and surprising was a great success.

Michael Wollny & Emile Parisien

Magnus Öström played the last set on Saturday night and his usual band with Andreas Hourdakis (Guitar) Thobias Gabrielson (Bass) & Daniel Karlsson (Keyboards) were excellent.

Their gig followed that of Frank Gambale’s All Stars, which was underwhelming at best. I had expected more from a player with such an illustrious career. By contrast Ostrom’s guitarist Andrea Hourdakis was a complete joy – with far more interesting and varied playing. His economy of notes in stark contrast to Gambale’s furious but seemingly endless meanderings and awful vocals. Öström’s compositions are certainly more inspired, his use of dark and light a certain reflection of his turbulent career post EST.

Frank Gambale’s All Stars

I missed the last night of the festival due to travel arrangements, which was a great shame as Soft Machine, Liz Warfield and ADHD were playing – a brilliant closing night by all accounts.

As a first time visitor to Gărâna I can honestly say I’m very impressed. This is a unique festival for many reasons – the stunning location, the programming and the friendliness of everyone you meet. Romania is not an expensive place and as long as you plan in advance – hire a car, book accommodation as close as you can to the festival site, take warm clothing and boots for the late nights – you will have a fantastic and memorable experience!